Had a a cracking sail heading for Treasure Cay with a reef in the main and jib. After a while though we decide to put into Orchid Bay on Great Guana.
Kinky Turtle - a Hunter 37' Sailboat leaves on September 28th from Ben Oaks dock in Severna Park, Maryland. Onboard will be Skipper Vincent Thomas and First Mate Phil Murfet. They will head south down the Chesapeake Bay and enter the ICW with a destination in Georgia. This is the first leg of a fabulous adventure.
Tuesday, February 25, 2014
Hope Town Lighthouse
Weather or not?
Sunglasses
Sunday, February 23, 2014
Sailing in the Rain, Just Sailing in the Rain
Saturday 22nd - After a quick run ashore to get Phil some sunglasses we left Man o' War to go snorkel off Fowl Cay again. We have a lazy sail with just the jib up and anchor off the Cay. Then Phil notices that it appears to be raining on Great Guana and there are ugly clouds coming across from the mainland. The weather forecast had talked of a front that would stall north of us but it seems that it moved further south than they expected. To the south of us the sun was shining and there was blue sky. So we up anchor and head for Marsh Harbor but too late the rain hit us in great torrents that almost flattened the sea. We'd thought it would be miserable but it was wonderful. The Turtle loved it, tearing along at 7 knots with one reef in. The rain was warm and we needed a shower anyway! It wasn't a case of the wetness seeping through our clothes, one moment we were dry the next we were soaked through. We carried on to Marsh Harbor and the rain stopped, then we were hit by a blast of warm air. It was like we were being blow dried.
We anchored in Marsh Harbor for the first time, before we went into the marina. No problem, change of clothes and then we went ashore to get a frying pan. We were rushing as it was close to 5pm and tomorrow was Sunday. Turns out we needn't have rushed as Maxell's stays open 8am-8pm. It's rather a shock after the Cays where a sign giving hours of business merely means an intention to open at those times. Nothing seems to come with guarantees in the Abaco, the cruising guides always seem to hedge with words like "usually". "The channel is usually well marked with red and green buoys".
It's the night of the Senior Junkanoo, last night was the Junior Junkanoo and had 11 schools competing. We ask various people where and when it takes place and perhaps the most accurate advice we got was that it will start much later then they say. Rumour had it that it would start at 8pm as there were only four groups competing. We ate at Snappas and it was still only 7pm. We walked to the traffic light and then were directed down the main road to the airport. We were just about to give up when someone stopped and gave us a lift. We paid our $5 and walked down the closed off road. Waiting for a Bahamian event is just a question of killing time, or in this case slowly torturing it to death. I watched people walk past so many times I became convinced I knew them from somewhere. At around 9:30p the first group started warming up and eventually started slowly down the road. Fronted by a sign that said "PRESENTS ANCIENT ARBARIAN" suggesting this was the Abaco Dyslexics Junkanoo Band. They were good, full of lot of energy. If it took them a long time to get started it seemed even longer to stop them, and there was no sign of the the next group. We had left our tender tied up at Snappas dock and we had visions of the placed being locked up with no access to the dock so we left the Junkanoo early (well 10pm) and walked back. Shame, the next group looked good although they still seemed to be assembling there center piece and clearly weren't going to start down the road any time soon. In truth it was probably an excuse as we were just tired of waiting around. We'd had one beer because we couldn't see any portaloos anywhere (Phil said he eventually found two). It's a long walk back but Snappas is still open. It bills itself as open "11am - Until" saying they stay open while they still have customers.We get into the tender and head to the anchorage. Pleased with ourselves that we had remembered to turn on the anchor light before leaving and to bring a torch with us, yet we still ended up motoring around the whole anchorage before coming back to the beginning and eventually finding the Turtle.
Junkanoo - is a parade/marching band/dancing with an African tribal flavor and very extravagant costumes. Lots of drums too. The groups compete with each other so there are long gaps between them rather than a parade where one follows another.
Man o' War
Decided to laze on the boat until the sun was lower, then felt we needed a walk ashore. As we rowed past StrathSpey we asked them what bagpipe tune they'll be playing to celebrate their victory (Canadians over US in ice hockey). We have seen them numerous times in different anchorages and it was good to finally talked to them. Mary noticed that we had lost two of our crew and she asked Phil if he still worked as he seemed to be on the phone a lot :^)
We went on shore and walked north on Queen's Highway until we could get back on to the Atlantic side and then walked along the beach back to "downtown". We got back in time to hear Blair play the bagpipes for sun down. It was great. I have a video but the wind was blowing which rather spoils the sound. As always Blair's playing was well received. by those around.
Sea Spray
We're getting a little leery about descriptions in the guide books. We now understand that phrases like "relaxing comes naturally here" and "at any time you can enjoy the amazing views" translate into "there's bugger all else to do here".
The Sea Spray marina had a full page advert describing their resort marina which boasted pool, Atlantic beach, restaurant etc.. Now it did have those but for some reason we were put off by the dredger moored up just ahead of it. The beach was ironshore (well that's what they called it in Cayman) so we didn't swim off it. I did see a surfer out that next day apparently it suits surfers because it doesn't have the protective reef. Although he can't have been too happy as the waves seemed to break just as he started to ride them.
So nothing wrong with Sea Spray, maybe we're just happier at anchor, unless there is something to do ashore.
Thursday, February 20, 2014
Little Harbor and Pete's Pub
When we went to Pete's pub there were a handful of people there. By the time our food arrived the place was teeming with people. It turned out that the Dive boat stops there for lunch and also as it is on the mainland people drive there in their cars. So much for our isolated little harbor.
The Atlantic side. It's a little weird as you are in the harbor which is tranquil but the sounds come from the waves crashing on the beach on the Atlantic side.After lunch we rowed over to some caves on the other side of the harbor. They're quite big and had bats in them. Well we couldn't see them as they roosted up in holes in the rocks, but you could hear them flapping their wings when you got too close. I like this one with the maniacal face looking at Phil.
Sandy Cay
Tuesday 18th - Sailed to Sandy Cay. This is a little confusing because in the laid back style of the Bahamas people in the past decided to name numerous cays after the only attribute they could think of at the time "It's Sandy". A bit like playing I-Spy on the boat and saying I spy something beginning with W. There's even a cay named "No Name Cay"!
We anchored where it was recommended but that left us with a long dinghy ride round to the other side. Phil wasn't happy and we ended up moving the boat around to the reef side which was a better choice. There's a big reef there with lots to see parrot, trumpet, french angel, yellow snapper, sargent major and a young turtle. I have have video from the gopro although it's no so exciting as being there. You really want a long lens rather than wide angle.
Sailed on to Lynyard Cay where there were a number of boats already anchored including a super yacht "Celestial". We went ashore and the Cay is narrow so it's a short walk to the Atlantic side.
Return to Marsh Harbor
Sunday 16th - We sailed back to Marsh Harbor and put into Harbor View marina again. They put us in the same slip as last time but it turns out they are only there from 1-3pm on Sunday so we're rather ticked off that we don't have a key to use any of the facilities. Fortunately, a kind gent from a boat called "The Office" lent us his spare key although only after some "Who's on First" style conversations along the lines of "just put the key in The Office" "But the office is closed that's why we don't have a key".
Saw Bob and Dianne again as this is there home base for their stay in the Abaco. We swapped hard disks (containing movies) and watched 12 Monkeys after eating at Conky Joe's. Morning we worked on our chores, Phil did the laundry and grocery shopping and I cycled about 2 miles with the gas tank to get it refilled. Marsh Harbor has tarmac roads, well potholes joined together by tarmac. It even has traffic lights (two). Cycling along requires concentration to not swerve out into traffic whilst trying to avoid the pot holes.
Oh yes I forgot, they drive on the right here (although all the cars are left hand drive), and I mean I forgot and nearly got mown down by a mini bus.Had a nice sail down to Tiloo Cay and anchored just below Tavern Cay. We rigged up the anchor light to hang from the bimini. Phil doesn't like it as he's not happy about taking a pee off the boat in the middle of the night not only under the stars but displayed by an all around white with a guaranteed range of 2 miles (the light that is not Phil peeing).
Monday, February 17, 2014
More wind
Thursday, February 13, 2014
Thunder Storm
Wednesday, February 12, 2014
A Cold Front Coming
Well OK so for most of you reading this blog at this time calling 63F cold would be laughable if that emotion is still possible when discussing the weather this winter. We've decided to stay in Man o' War on a mooring as tonight the forecast is for thunderstorms and 25-35 mph winds. We went ashore again while we still have the opportunity and went looking for Lola's bakery but it looked like a home. We asked a guy in the cemetery and he said Lola had stopped baking as she was too old and losing her memory. You see a lot of old people in the Abacos either they live longer in this climate and the slow pace of life or it attracts retirees (ooh that would be me).
Carried on to the beach. The sand is soft and leaves a footprint about an inch deep. I was a little worried about the current so I watched the patches of weed and they didn't seem to move faster than I can snorkel so I went in. A few places where there were fish but it would have been disappointing if wasn't for two fish that swam either side of me. They were white with long flowing dorsal fins. My best guess is that they were polameta, a member of the Jack family it says in my book obviously a very close family.
Phil says they are forecasting hurricane force winds in the UK. Kind of ironic that he should have to worry about hurricanes back home when we're in the Caribbean. Catherine says they are forecasting 10" of snow and ice back in Maryland and Pete and Terry say they are traveling through the worst snow and ice storms ever seen in GA and SC.
Beginning to feel a little guilty. Maybe I'll go out on deck in the 18 mph winds and raise a glass to you all. It's sunny and 80F btw.
Half the crew go home.
Marsh Harbor, Man o' War
Monday we sailed/motored to Marsh Harbor as Terry and Peter were leaving on Tuesday. Marsh Harbor is the third largest town in the Bahamas but it didn't seem very attractive. It seemed similar to the rest of the Abacos but with roads and cars and without the charm of say Hope Town. We went into HarborView marina and Phil and Terry went for a walk. I had a shower but after I got back to the boat the rain came down in torrents for about 20-30 minutes and they returned looking like they were the ones who had had a shower.
Next day we said goodbye to Terry and Peter in the morning and then went to SaveAlot which is the down market grocery store. They sold goat meat and chicken's feet. I was worried that Phil would buy them but he didn't have a recipe so we avoided that. We had started by going to the only chandlers in Marsh Harbor for a port running light but they didn't have one. I did get an 8lb anchor for the dinghy which got heavier and heavier as we walked around looking for the grocery store. Then loaded up with groceries and by the time we got back to the boat my arms must have been about a foot longer.
We motored to Man o' War Cay giving Phil a chance to exercise his skill in fishing which so far has been an exercise in frustration. The only fisherman we saw was spear fishing. Man o' War Cay has a narrow and shallow entrance but we got in OK and picked up a mooring by the "town". We rowed ashore and explored the town which took a little longer than typing this sentence. We walked across to the Atlantic side and walked along the beach for about a mile. We met one couple in that time. Heading inland it turned out we went through private property in our search for the "road" back. We only found this out when we passed a blank sign that had private on the other side. We walked back into town along roads (well paths just wide enough for one golf cart) with names like Uncle Tweedie's road and Uncle Bennie's Hill. That just about exhausted what we could do in MoW so we went back to the boat.